This is the first of a series of extracts from Paul Clutterbuck’s book Inside Amsterdam in which he re-visits some of his old haunts.
1. In‘t Aepjen (In the Monkey or Ape)
Zeedijk 1
1012 AN Amsterdam
Tel: 020-6268401
Hours: Sun-Thurs 3pm-1am Fri-Sat 3pm-3am
Beer; Belgian draft and seasonal:
Wine; South African
Food: Dutch snacks
.
Historic, bizarre and fun
This café is housed in one of the only two wooden houses remaining in Amsterdam. The other is in the Begijnhof near the Spui. As far back as 1519 this was an inn for sailors as Zeedijk was literally the dyke keeping the sea at bay and ships would dock there or nearby. The café name comes from the 16th century when sailors would not be allowed back on board ships once docked – only an officer’s privilege – until it was time to sign up for the next pleasure cruise.
Sailors would be paid up-to-date by the Dutch East India Company and head off to spend as fast as they could on the dreaded drink, women and gambling. When it came to lodgings, this inn would sleep penniless seafarers in the roof where monkeys given in lieu of money were kept.
The monkeys had been transported from the Far East (probably Indonesia). There is still a Dutch saying used today “jij bent in de aap gelogeerd zeg” which roughly translates to sleeping with monkey’s but in modern day terms means someone who has got himself in some serious problems and needs a friend or relative to help them out.
In‘t Aepjen has an amazing array of artifacts such as the strange gorilla mannequin (note the poor attempt at a monkey) in one ceiling corner. Opposite is what looks like Lawrence of Arabia playing an accordion and making his way up the staircase. I am reliably informed that this is, in fact, the only musical mannequin in Amsterdam or at least the only broken one. The original staircase has been preserved well (no monkey scratch marks) and the high ceiling gives the feeling of being in a cathedral annex. The old and much used bentwood furniture, the rugs on the tables and the ancient looking birdcages are typical of a brown café but the refreshingly (for a change) light coloured walls aren’t.
The beautiful wooden floor is made from German beer barrels and the reason there is no sand to shuffle under your feet might be due to gaps between the boards. The sand must already be in the basement. Normally no music is played but at weekends an accordionist slips in to stare competitively at Lawrence and lead the regulars through a good old fashioned Dutch sing-a-long.
You’ll remember your visit that night.
Get your copy of Inside Amsterdam here and help kids with facial deformaties worldwide enjoy a better life.
Thank you
Cliff
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Cliff Chapman
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